Paperbark Camp, Jervis Bay – Glamping at it’s finest.

Just in case you’ve been hiding under a rock, there is a new travel trend that satisfies both your craving for the great outdoors and your penchant for the finer things in life. The perfect blend of being at one with nature, yet still enjoying a hassle free getaway, where you can put your feet up, enjoy a good meal, a nice glass of wine, and a comfortable bed.

Yes my friends, it’s GLAMPING!

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Respecting traditions in a world looking for that perfect photo!

Watching the Alms giving ceremony, from afar.

It’s been over a month now since I’ve left home and looking back I have already seen and done so much, but luckily time hasn’t gone too fast, like I feared it would.

It’s funny how your perception of time shifts when you aren’t caught up in the slip stream of life, but out exploring the world and doing things you want to do, not what you feel you have to do. Everyday i’m catching myself a little more lost in the moment, which is exactly where I want to be.

Despite having only limited time at each destination, my travels in Thailand, Laos, Cambodia & Vietnam have met all my expectations and then some. I have certainly witnessed some once in a lifetime moments.

From my day with the Elephants in  Chiang Mai (as per my post ), to cooking up a storm with a Laos chef in Luang Prabang, to witnessing sunrise over Angkor Wat in Cambodia, each of these experiences has once again highlighted the value of travel.

Among the travel joys I’ve encountered on my trip so far, I have been surprised that not all of my feelings about travel and tourism have been positive.

There have been several moments where i’ve found myself despising tourism and the impact it’s having on some of the local communities and cultures, and reading more about it all only heightens my concern that the commercialism of the industry is overtaking previously authentic customs.

Take the traditional giving of Alms in Luang Prabang, Laos as an example where i honestly felt ashamed to be a tourist.

The giving of Alms is a tradition in various religions, but in buddhist culture (according to Wikipedia) the act of alms giving assists in connecting the human to the monk or nun and what he/she represents. In Luang Prabang monks rise at dawn and form a procession from oldest to youngest and collect food offerings from the towns people, however the tradition is endangered.

It became evident upon my arrival in Luang Prabang that the local people (along with UNESCO) are trying to protect the heritage and customs of this beautiful city. There are signs outlining do’s and don’ts all around town pleading with tourists to be respectful of their culture, particularly when it came to the monks and the Alms ceremony.

Requests for tourists to watch from a distance, not to use flash photography, stay lower than the monks and ideally just observe the tradition (and not actually participate) were plastered on notices in every hotel and store.

There is however a great contradiction occurring with hotels and tour companies selling ‘alms packages’ where tourists are given a pot of rice and are lined up on the street, amongst the locals to offer the monks food.

I had heard accounts of the monks getting sick from rice given by tourists, and tourists getting so close to take photos that they interrupt the procession and break the monks meditation.

We’d also heard from locals that the monks had talked with authorities about cancelling the morning ritual, as it had become so commercial, with the government responding that actors would be hired to do the ceremony, if they didn’t! What the?

So, for now the monks continue their tradition. Every morning at 530 am they take to the streets collecting food offered to them for their monasteries and while I was excited to witness the ceremony, I was also mindful of the do’s and don’ts, so I was interested to see if everyone else would be.

The next morning at 5.30am, we were sitting quietly on the opposite side of the street to where the monks would be making their way toward the monastery. We ensured we were well out of the way, and that our camera flashes were off. Then, one by one, mini van after mini van pulled up. Tourists climbed out with rice baskets in hand, mats laid out along the road and their guides talking them through the Alms process. Then, flash flash flash… The cameras went off with people posing, waiting for the arrival of the monks.

I was already feeling anxious.

As the sun started to rise, the monks in their orange robes started to appear and tourists who had previously been standing back or sitting down jumped up and got within a metre of the procession, not only blocking the view of people like us, sitting down out of the way, but getting so close that they we’re clearly being disruptive. I was witnessing all the DON’TS that the signs were pleading for people to take into account.

The don'ts of viewing the Alms ceremony in Luang Prabang...
Tourists getting WAY too close to the Alms ceremony!

Yes, like every other tourist I would have loved to capture a great photo of the monks, but I wasn’t willing to be one of ‘those’ tourists to do it.

For the remainder of the procession I tried to take in as much of the tradition as i could. I took my photos from a distance and I focussed on the locals and their faces as they gave their offerings. After the last monks had passed I left feeling so torn about tourism and the affect it was having on this and other traditions around the world.

As you know I sell travel for a living and i also love photography, especially travel photography, so I know that this completely contradicts what I do and love, but it did make me think….

It made me wonder how many other traditions or cultures are being destroyed by tourism and our craving to see the sights & get an amazing photo that will get you likes on Facebook or Instagram.

It also made me consider what I could do to lessen my impact as i travel around the world. I still want to be able to interact with ancient cultures, see the iconic sights and get some great photos along the way, so how can I do it responsibly?

The answer for me is always (ALWAYS!) respect local customs and then do my research to choose organisations (as best I can) that support responsible tourism. People who are working within their communities to preserve these traditions or seeking out locally operated or not for profit expats who are running businesses that are truly making a difference.

Since the Elephant encounter in Chiang Mai & the Alms ceremony in Luang Prabang I’ve also visited Cambodia, and made an effort to seek out experiences that not only gave me a genuine cultural experience but also supported the local community.

Haven restaurant in Siem Reap, and the Children’s development organisation i visited (coming to my blog soon!) we’re both examples of these choices and knowing that our visit was giving something back to the community made it all the more worthwhile.

I am so grateful that i have now witnessed some of these experiences first hand so that for the rest of this trip, into the future and when I’m arranging itineraries for others, I can make educated decisions about what we see, how we participate and exactly what organisations we visit. Plus i can reiterate the absolute importance of respecting the local culture.

I’m sure once i start looking there will be plenty of amazing examples of organisations who are allowing you to have an authentic cultural experience whilst ensuring the preservation and support of the people, customs and environment that we spend so much time and money coming to see.

So please… think about all of this when your planning your next trip. I promise you, it’ll be worth it!

Observing the locals participate in the morning giving of Alms.
Observing the locals participate in the morning giving of Alms.

Not just another Elephant Trek in Thailand!

Happy close and personal
Up close and personal!

Elephant Nature Park  – Chiang Mai

12th of August 2013

Elephants! Earths largest land mammal and my Mums animal obsession. (Seriously… she’ll literally scream with excitement when there is anything to do with an elephant on TV or in a movie!)

It would be almost unheard of to come to Thailand and not have at least 1 interactive experience with an Elephant, but Swanny and I wanted to choose wisely.

Elephants fascinate me and I’d ridden Elephants in Phuket previously, and to be honest I didn’t love it. I’d since read about safari parks and trekking companies in Thailand mistreating their Elephants, so after a hot tip from a friend of Swan’s we came across the Elephant Nature Park, Chiang Mai.

It’s a unique sanctuary for Asian Elephants in Northern Thailand, and was founded in 1992 by an award-winning conservationist ‘Lek’, by rescuing injured and mistreated Elephants. With the Asian Elephant numbers dropping from over 100,000 last century to just 3000 today, we thought this would be the perfect opportunity to see the Elephants up close, and also do our part to support a great cause.

As we purchased the tickets for our full day at the park, the sales assistant kept saying ‘no riding’,’ no riding’! We assured her that we didn’t want to ride the Elephants and that we understood what their park was about. I’m assuming they are more used to travelers wanting their ½ hr ride on an Elephants back and a cool photo.

Arriving at the park, Lek’s passion for rescuing, rehabilitating and conserving the Asian Elephant is evident. The park is HUGE and with over 30 Elephants in her care, it isn’t long until we are eye to eye with them. (Well, almost!). Hand feeding an 80yr old Elephant is a pretty special moment, although their trunks are kind of freaky and seem to have a mind of their own.

Lunch time
Lunch time
That wandering trunk!
That wandering trunk!

Each of the rescued Elephants has their story about why they we’re rescued. Like ‘Hope’ the orphaned baby Elephant who was bottle-fed and nursed back to health after being rescued from a trekking camp after his Mum passed away. Hope is now a teenager and still so naughty that he’s the only Elephant in the sanctuary who has to wear a bell, to keep tabs on his whereabouts!

Some of the rescue stories move you to tears. Overworked, Underfed, and tortured until they become submissive… The treatment of some of these poor creatures is horrendous, so I’m thankful that a sanctuary like this exists.

After a traditional Thai lunch we are back out in the field, walking with the Elephants. We learned about the small herds that had formed within the park, something that nature denied these guys when they we’re put to work for logging and trekking companies before arriving at their new home.

Having a scratch!
Having a scratch!
Their Sanctuary!

We then had an opportunity to bathe the Elephants in the river, which was as hands on as you can get. Feeling their rough skin under your finger tips, and watching them frolic in the water with the other volunteers, is an experience that riding an Elephant in a trekking camp just won’t give you, and something I’ll remember for a long long time.

Bathing the Elephants!
Bathing the Elephants!
Swanny & I
Swanny & I

Don’t get me wrong…. Not all of the trekking companies on Thailand mistreat their Elephants, but if you want a unique Elephant encounter and wish to know that the money you’re spending is going to a great cause then I recommend a visit to the Elephant Nature Park.

I can honestly say that when you look in these Elephants eyes, they are happy.

Kate xx

Happy in their new home!
Happy in their new home!

Going to Chiang Mai? How you can help!

You can spend a day at the park like we did or you can do an overnight stay to learn even more. The park runs mostly off volunteers so run weeklong volunteering programs, which would be pretty special if you have the time.

You can also foster an elephant or make a donation by visiting their site.